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Calculating Amt



ASTM E-84 Fire Rated Foam Prices on this site are in U.S. Dollars. Order here and save!


Our FAQ page is full of helpful tips and hints for getting the most out of your foam insulation kit.

This page completely explains how to use FOMO FOAM for SOUND CONTROL. It is detailed. CLICK HERE to proceed to pricing/purchasing if you are already familiar with this product in this application. Thank you.




Soundproofing Exiting Walls in Homes

Businesses, Apartments or Condos


Soundproofing in New Construction




Polyurethane Foam

 Polyurethane Foam

Sound is a form of energy. The more energy produced in one place, the greater effect that energy will have in another if it is allowed to get there.

Example:- Throw a stone = Energy expelled

Get hit by a stone = Energy received !!

The harder the stone is thrown, the more it hurts !

 There are three ways of stopping the stone hurting. 

1:- Wear something very dense,  the stone will bounce off. You may feel the dent where it hit, but its effect will be reduced.  

2:- Wear something very thick and soft, the power of the stone will be absorbed by the softness. You may still feel the stone, but the force will be greatly reduced. 

3:- Get to the joker with the stone.

The same principles can be applied to sound. Unfortunately its a little more complicated because differing frequencies ( Bass, etc) of sound, produce different energies (frequencies) and need to be dealt with in slightly different ways...If the stone above was very sharp, small and pointed, it may well pierce the protection, whereas a larger, flatter stone would not.

The two sound control options come with many variations, basically they can be divided into the areas below.

Passive Absorption:
When sound passes through an acoustically absorptive material like mineral wool insulation or acoustic foam, the sound waves are forced to change directions many times and travel great distances before the sound passes completely through the absorptive material.  Each time a sound waves changes direction, a portion of the energy is absorbed by conversion to heat. When there is a reflective surface behind the absorber, (such as a wall) the sound which passes through the absorber will be reflected back and through the absorber once again. Absorbers work best when there is some sort of a reflective surface behind them. For some sounds (low frequency) an air gap is ideal between the absorber and the reflective surface or wall.

A noise barrier can be constructed from almost any non porous material.  Since sound is energy, an effective barrier must have enough mass (weight and density) and a low resonant frequency to stop (or reflect) this energy.  As sound pressure levels increase so does the sound power (energy). High sound power levels will excite any surface they encounter causing the surface to vibrate at its resonant frequency which inevitably makes the walls shake.  Low frequency sound contains more energy, because a larger volume of air is being displaced to produce the long wavelengths associated with bass and sub bass frequencies.  These low frequency sounds easily excite most common building materials like wood and 3/4" thick drywall.


FOMO Foam Soundproofing for existing 

Homes or Apartments and Condos

FOMO Foam Slow Rise (SR) pour in place foam insulation is designed with a delayed foaming agent. One of it's many uses is to fill walls in existing homes or apartments and condos to isolate noisy areas or walls connecting to noisy neighbors.

Simple to use.These kits will fill approximately 200 square feet of 2x4 wall with 16" on center studs. See how to figure how much you need HERE.

This foam is high-density foam, and is often not the most economical soundproofing for between floors. Cellulose insulation dense-packed between floors is suggested as one excellent and economical solution for those living below high traffic areas. The fact that, for foam to be effective, you have to fill what is often 8" to 12" floor joist cavities, a cellulose insulation contractor will be able to dense pack cellulose for effective sound insulation in the floor cavities much more economically.

In the walls, Fomo Foam works great for sound control. High-density foam is also an excellent air seal. The odors of cooking and smoking will not penetrate wall cavities insulated with FOMO Foam! 

The Slow Rise formula is easy to use and comes with the patented HANDI-GUN® and hoses attached. You simply drill 3 one-half inch holes in the first two cells you are going to insulate. One hole 1/3 up, one hole 2/3 up, and one hole near the top. Then drill the holes in the rest of the wall except only put 2 holes in each cell. One hole halfway up and one hole near the top.

Now that you have all your holes drilled, you simply make sure you have a tip on the gun and rock the cylinders for a couple of minutes each, turn on the valves on top of both tanks to full open and slide the tip of the gun into the first hole 1/3rd up and hold the trigger down for 15 seconds. 

Have a rag handy to plug the hole in case the foam starts coming out of the hole. The SR formula is designed to stay lava-like until it flows down to the bottom of the cell then starts rising up the cavity. It will take the path of least resistance and completely fill the cavity from the bottom up. After about a minute and a half, the 15 second burst you put in will be completely risen. If it started pumping out of the hole, you can tap on and feel the wall to gauge how high it rose. Adjust your timing for the next 1/3rd and then do the top third.

If there is blockage or old insulation or a thin wall, the foam may hit the opposite wall and stick until it gets heavy enough to fall. It won't harden or set for 90 seconds and is designed to come out at a gelatinous or lava like consistency. If this is the way it works for you, and you find obstructions are a problem, then simply get some 5/16" hose 50' at a Home Depot or hardware store and slide a one or two foot piece of the hose over the end of the gun and slide that into the hole pointing down. Then go to the hole above, called "witness holes" and spray down to the first hole until the foam meets. If it's still rising, that's okay. It'll just keep pushing up. If you use the hose system, you will need to use a new 1 or 2 foot section on each cell or cavity just so the hose doesn't become so foamed up it creates a mess when you take it out of the wall.

Normally, in most wall assemblies, this is not necessary. Also be aware that some walls were built with cross pieces as fire blocks in the cells. Of course, this will "feel" like an obstruction, but just drill below it and fill that isolated area. Some people like to use the hose system for more control of where the foam is going. It's a personal preference and your decision.

You are probably going to have to replace the tip after the first hole. If you stop spraying these kits for more than 30 seconds, the tip may clog up. You can tell because the trigger will be hard to pull. DON'T force it! Your kit comes with 8 extra tips. If you force it you will cause the gun to freeze up with backfilled foam. You can use 4 or 5 tips in the first 3 cells to get the feel of how it is going to expand in your particular wall assembly.

Then you fill the rest of the cells halfway up and return to the first unfinished cell and do all the top halves. Doing it steadily in smaller increments from cell to cell to cap them off is the best way to do it. It's easy and not at all messy. Just be ready to hold something over the hole if you put too much in. It'll still rise UP if the hole is plugged. If you REALLY get crazy and put in way too much at the top, have a bucket or paint tray or something ready to catch the excess that may not have anywhere else to go except out of the hole. The top hole acts as a pressure valve. If it has to go - it has to go. Let it. Just don't make the same mistake twice. ;o)

Smaller layers means more control. Just do it steadily across the wall and back...and forth... until the cells are capped off.

Then patch your little 3/4 inch holes, touch up the paint and be proud of your job.

That's all there is too it!

Relevant Mr. Foam Inquiry:


Hello Mr. Foam, my question is: I own a home that was built in 1968 and has little to no insulation in the wall.  Could you supply me with a math formula to calculate how much product I should purchase?  An example of what I want to insulate is an existing wall that is approximately 8ft tall by 14ft wide.  The studs are 16" on center.  From the "Existing Homes" page it appears that I should order the "Slow rise" formula.  Is that correct?  Thank you for your help!!

Hello Rob,

Yes, the SR formula is the right formula. Calculations are simple enough once you understand that the product numbers (II-100, II-200 & II-600 SR) correspond to board foot (12”x 12” x 1”) coverage, i.e. II-100 yields 100 board feet, II-200 yields 200 board feet and II-600 yields 600 board feet.

If you have an 8’x 14’ foot wall to drill and fill, multiply 8x14 to get the total square footage (in this case = 112 sq. ft.) subtract any doors or windows and multiply times the depth of the cavity. If we assume you have 3.5” 2x4s (most aren’t TRUE 2x4s, but actually 2”x 3.5”s) and there are no windows or doors, you would multiply 112 times 3.5 which equals 392 board feet.

To fill the 8’ x 14’ foot wall above, you would need 2 of the II-200 kits. This product is significantly less expensive in the II-600 kit. For example, 2 of the II-200 kits will cost $660.34 whereas one II-600 kit (30% more coverage) only costs $700.00, in effect giving you a free II-200 because it’s all packaged in one kit. One 600 kit is yield equivalent to 3 of the 200 kits.

Your energy savings will be very significant. Any leftover material can be put into a lot of areas that need attention. Sill plates in the basement or crawlspace, for instance…where the basement or crawlspace walls meet the floor where the floor joists lay on the wall.

I hope this answers your questions and wish you a well-insulated day!

Polyurethane Foam


Spray Foam Insulation Kits Stuffing fiberglass in this area of the basement is worse than ineffective. A 1" coating all around the basement wall cap will prevent air infiltration and excess moisture buildup.

In existing homes, a small kit will make a big difference!

FOMO Foam Soundproofing for 

New Construction


Just one inch of foam to seal the walls before putting in a sound attenuating batt or cellulose soundproofing fiber adds significantly to the total sound transmission blocking ratio of the wall assembly, making it easy to meet specs.


Similar to the famous 1" of high density foam and R-13 batt in an outside 2x4 wall solution, (R-20 in a 2x4 wall) this is a good sound control solution for laundry and utility rooms or dens and TV rooms. Thinking of soundproofing needs BEFORE you move in and during the building phase makes it easier to do by using the II-605 Handifoam kits. 


Simply spray 1" of foam and add batting for an effective reduction in sound transmission from potentially problem areas of your new home.


If you are building new, you should consider having this product installed as outlined in our Home Builder section: CLICK HERE.

Polyurethane FoamSpray Foam Insulation Kits

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Pricing and Ordering Information


Material Safety Data Sheets, Tech Sheets and Instructions

Item#  -  Size      

MSDS Tech Data Instructions Price/Buy
HF105 - II-105



105 Tech Data Sheet Operating Instructions


HF205 - II-205



205 Tech Data Sheet Operating Instructions


HF605 - II-605




605 Tech Data Sheet Operating Instructions


E-84 Fire Rated:

HF605FR - II-605 FR


HF205FR - II-205 FR

A-Side  B-Side E-84 Tech Data Sheet Operating Instructions



HF100SR II-100 SR A-Side  B-Side II-100 (SR) Tech Sheet Operating Instructions


HF200SR II-200 SR A-Side  B-Side II-200 (SR) Tech Sheet Operating Instructions


HF600SR II-600 SR


A-Side  B-Side II-600 (SR) Tech Sheet Operating Instructions


2.5 Pound Density Roofing Foam (or other very dense foam applications)

HF145 II-145 2.5



II-145 Tech Data Sheet Operating Instructions


HF425 II-425 2.5




II-425 Tech Data Sheet Operating Instructions


  • The numbers after the II - corresponds to board foot yield 

  • A board foot is 12" x 12"x 1" (like a floor tile 1 inch thick)

  • Example: The II-605 Kit covers 605 square feet 1" thick

  • FR = E-84 Fire Rated - SR= Slow Rise 

  • The 600 & 605 kits comes multiple nozzle tips, including cone and fan spray pattern tips. You have the option to purchase additional tips in the shopping cart. We include enough for most applications unless you plan to stop and start a lot.

  • The foam expands to a final volume that is more than 3-5 times the dispensed volume, and may be as much as 8 times, depending on various factors such as cavity size, ambient conditions, etc.

  • All kits come complete with hoses, gun and the tanks are pressurized. There is no need for additional equipment and they are disposable after use.

  • The SR, FR & 2.5 pound density formulas may require a 10 day lead time, depending on quantity ordered and production load.

  • Click the BUY NOW Link under the price for each kit. You can then change the quantity in the cart.

NOTE: If shipping to an address other than the billing address for your credit card, that address must be on file with your credit card company as an approved ship to location. Simply call your credit card company and tell them to add that address to your approved list of ship to addresses.


Polyurethane FoamSpray Foam Insulation Kits



Pallet Pricing is available. Call 800.339.3531 Option 1

600 and 605 bd. ft. kits are shipped 9 units per pallet.

100, 105, 205 & 200 bd. ft. kits are shipped 26 units per pallet.

A Board Foot for calculating this product is 12"x12"x1"


To order by phone call 800.339.3531

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Spray Foam Insulation Kits
Commercial Thermal Solutions, Inc.
is an independently operated and owned distributor of Handi-Foam® and its related products.
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